what is last?

Last

Definition:-  last is the exact replica of the human foot upon which a design shoe will be lasted commonly it is said that the last is not exactly the replica of the foot but only resembles it is outline allowance is provided in the formoment and flexing of the foot inside the shoe.  As the hind point is more or less standard, there is no allowance provided.

Important point of the last:-

1.    Last centre lane (LCL)

2.    Standard last length (SLL)

3.    Toe spring

4.    Joint girth

5.    Seat girth

6.    Vamp point

7.    Back tack height / counter point

8.    Thread line

9.    Seat line

10. Heel height /pitch

11. Seat point

12. Tip of toe

13. Instep point

14. Comb of the last

15. Breast of the last

1.    STANDARD LAST LENGTH (S.L.L.)

It is the length in inches or millimeters, which is the length of the foot (heel to toe) from 10 to 13 mm addition.  This is for lasts of closed typed shoes only actual length o a last may and does very considerably form the standard length to the dictates of fasturn. The standard length is fixed for a particular size which is actual foot of length from 10 to 13 mm of any indidual last a pointed toe is not included in the measurement of standard last length.

2.    TOE SPRING

When the thread line and line heel touch the ground maximum height the toe of the last is above the ground is called toe spring.  The spring help the foot to rock with the heel to toe moment to reduce the amount of creasing across the vamp of the shoe when it is fleeced and to give extra top-line dip by downward pressure of the toes.  

3.    JOINT GRITH

It is the widest position on the forepart of the last it is also called the position that firmly grips the foot and supports it during and wear.

4.    VAMP POINT

The point where the joint girth meets the last centre line (L.C.L.) in the vamp. It is indicated by jointing the counter point and tip of toe.  It is 2/3 of the length of the foot.

5.    SEAT GIRTH

It is the widest portion on the hind point of the last.  In the shoe hand of the foot is supported by this portion during walk and wear.

6.    COUNTER POINT/ BACK TACK HEIGHT

It is determined the back height of the shoe.  It is the point up the back curve of the last which is 1/5 of the standard last length (S.L.L.) form the seat point upward.

7.    THREAD LINE

It connects the two joints insides and outside, of a last fast draw a perpendicular outline of the last at the distance 2/3 standard last length (S.L.L.) from the seat point.  This mark the position of the inside joint in the same way draws a perpendicular toward the outer edge of a distance 1/10 s.l.l. behind the inside.  Joint this marks the outside joint.  Joint this two point to form the thread line.

8.    SEAT LINE

On the bottom of the last. It connects the two widest point of the seat c girth and it is marked by the same method as done for the thread line.

9.    PITCH/ HEEL HEIGHT

It is the height or vertical distance form the ground to the seat point of the last.

10. SEAT POINT

It is located at the rear of the bottom of the last it is the point at which the line drawn the centered the back of the last drawn the seat curve on the bottom of the last.

11. TIP OF TOE

It is the point at which a line drawn down the front centre of the last intersects the toe curve it is located by judgment.

12. INSTEP POINT

On a prevail of the last the counter point and the tip of the toe are marked.  These two points are connected by a line. At a point ½ SL a perpendicular is drawn upwards to meet the last centre line (LCL).  This is the instep point.

13. COMB OF THE LAST

It is the narrow areas at the top of the last and is defined as “the area above a line joining the vamp point and the counter point

14. BREAST OF THE HEEL

It is located at the bottom of the last perpendicular to the centre line is drawn at ¼ SL from the seat point toward the toe, to meet the outline of last.

TYPES OF LAST

Based on followed:-

1)    Materials:

a)    Wood:- Best woods of foreign Origen, Maple, beech, Horn beam etc.  useable woods of Indian origin, chickraesy, black sires, mango acacia etc.

b)    Plastic:- Hdpe and Ldpe

c)    Metal:- usually an Aluminum alloy.